THE fresh stamp in my passport reads: One Happy Island.
Little did I know on landing in the balmy isle of Aruba, I’d soon be reading this slogan everywhere I went — above the hotel entrance, in cafes and even on cocktail menus.
It has become something of a motto among the locals in this laidback Caribbean country, where twisted mangrove trees line the shores and crystal-clear bays flank colourful towns.
Just north of Venezuela and a little below the Dominican Republic, Aruba may share the same sea and lush landscapes as its neighbouring countries, but it certainly has its own unique identity.
The island is a mishmash of culture, where worn buildings painted with bright street art meet isolated beach bars with steel drum players swaying to their own soft melodies.
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A couple of kilometres inland is the capital Oranjestad, where you’ll find yourself wandering among Dutch colonial buildings that are a complete juxtaposition to the white sands and coconut palm trees.
Each shop and cafe in the capital is painted in pastel shades of pink, green or blue and outlined with a lacey white trim. It looks almost fairytale-like in the light of the beating sun. And, in a way, the country is a kind of Neverland, geared up for travellers in search of complete escapism.
Until recently, in 2023 the only way to reach this One Happy Island year-round from Britain was to fly via Amsterdam.
But in March this year, British Airways launched flights from Gatwick via Antigua, opening up this destination to UK travellers looking for new sun-soaked beaches to explore.
The country’s proximity to the US means it attracts lots of Americans who come for the year-round sun and all-inclusive resorts.
But there’s plenty of adventure to be found beyond the busy hotels.
Arikok National Park makes up a staggering 20 per cent of Aruba and is home to 75 kilometres of desert-esque walking trails. The untouched landscape here is worlds apart from Aruba’s tourist spots, and home to hidden caves, secret coves and a conservation centre that works hard to preserve its precious wildlife.
It was in the depths of the park, concealed by weathered cacti, that I discovered Aruba’s best kept secret: Barca Di Tortuga, which translates as “Bay of Turtles”.
This tiny, picturesque beach is so secluded that even locals don’t know about it, according to our tour guide, Raoul.
I’d never have believed such a cliché were it not for our entirely barren surroundings as our truck pulled to a sudden halt.
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But as we followed Raoul closer towards the cliff edge, scrambling over fossilised coral, the horizon started to give way to crashing waves and a small patch of untrodden sand protected by tall, sandy cliffs.
Raoul and his friends claim to have discovered this beach when exploring as kids and gave it its name.
This “Bay of Turtles” is a truly special spot, with eroded sea stacks and luminous blue waters that nature photographers would rave about, although sadly, there were no turtles nesting there during our visit.
If you’re eager to spot the sea creatures, then head for the popular Eagle Beach on the opposite side of Aruba. When we visited in the middle of April, the 1.2-mile stretch of sand was home to several leatherback nests, all protected by a barrier. Eagle Beach is also the best spot for swimming, thanks to the calm, shallow water — plus it’s breathtakingly beautiful.
I wasn’t surprised when, this year, it was named best beach in the Caribbean and second best beach in the entire world by TripAdvisor. It was blissfully empty too — perhaps because all the tourists seemed to have flocked to the beach on Flamingo Island, so named because it’s covered with the pink birds which were imported from Venezuela. It’s owned by the Renaissance hotel, but non-guests can buy day passes to visit.
Scorpions and tequila
If you plan on going to Flamingo Island, make sure to grab some food at Lucy’s, by the hotel on the Renaissance Marina.
Try the tequila shots, if you dare — they certainly pack a punch, served with a scorpion at the bottom of the glass.
For something with a little less bite, book a brekkie or lunch with Picnic Aruba (picnicaruba.com), a luxury pop-up picnic company that lays out huge feasts on the sand.
They’ll sort everything — blankets and cushions to sit on, mini picnic tables, cutlery, fairy lights, hot tea, coffee and even bubbles plus an array of local Dutch foods like cheeses, cured meats and sweets. Or, if you like the sound of dinner on the beach but fancy a more formal setting, the beachfront restaurant at the Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, where we were staying, serves a small but excellent seafood menu.
Dishes include buttery local lobster served with potato fondant and grouper in a macadamia nut crust.
The resort also has its own casino and a live music bar for after-dinner fun, while during the day, there are limitless sunbathing spots where you can kick back and relax with an Aruba Ariba (a local fruity cocktail made with rum and vodka).
If you’re a fan of watersports, then paddleboarding, wakeboarding and even paddleboard yoga are available to book through the hotel, but water babies will do better booking a boat tour, when they can sail the periphery of the island and try out Aruba’s best snorkel spots.
We spotted colourful fish galore and even some turtles bobbing just below the surface.
I don’t know if it’s the award-winning beaches or the many Aruba Aribas, but it appears that everyone here is in agreement: Aruba is One Happy Island.
