ANCIENT historical wonders and world-class museums aside, Athens is fast-earning a reputation as one of Europe’s coolest cities – the ideal destination to mix history with fun.
While it is great as a weekend escape, combining it with a stay on an island such as Mykonos, Santorini or Paros (all just a few hours away by ferry) gives you the perfect beach/city combination.
WHY SHOULD I GO?: Athens is a bargain compared with other European capitals.
Blink and there is a new opening in once down-at-heel neighbourhoods such as Psyrri, so it is an exciting time to explore.
STREETS MADE FOR WALKING?: Central Athens — around Syntagma, Plaka, Monastiraki and Psyrri — are easy to navigate by foot.
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To reach attractions elsewhere, such as the National Archaeological Museum in Exarchia, taxis are cheap (on average, €6 from city centre) or hop on the efficient Metro.
A climb up to the Acropolis — the greatest ancient site in the Western world — is breathtaking, with the Parthenon, built in the 4th century BC.
Go early or late in the day to avoid crowds. And visit the Acropolis Museum to see treasures.
At Parliament, catch the hourly changing of the guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, when the guards strut in fustanella (white skirts) and pom-pom shoes.
With a Greek island vibe, the white-washed lanes in Anafiotika, Plaka — where migrating islanders built blue-shuttered homes in the mid 1800s — are a true joy.
ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST?: The market in Monastiraki spreads to the ancient Agora.
Amid the tourist kitsch, colourful leather sandals are a good buy, averaging €15 a pair.
Pop into Georgantas George, a hole-in-the-wall, family-run business near the main square).
For custom made, try Lemisios, an Athens stalwart, trading since 1912.
Natural sponges (€5-€8) are a bargain, as are beauty products using Greek ingredients, such as olive blossom body cream and Greek yoghurt foam cleanser from Athens’ natural skincare brand Korres.
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WHERE SHOULD I EAT?: Plaka may be the tourist hub, but you’ll find lots of good-quality restaurants here.
At the bottom of steep, picturesque Mnisikleous, perch on a cushion-clad stone step at Yiasemi Cafe and order a €5 Greek feta cheese salad.
Scholarhio is one of Athens’ oldest restaurants and has a pretty flower-filled terrace.
For €16.50 per head, including wine and bread, you can choose five Greek classics, such as tzatziki, taramasalata and moussaka.
All are homemade and delicious (for something a little different, try the courgette fritters with yoghurt).
For fine dining, The Zillers roof garden serves award-winning contemporary Greek grub with a view of the Acropolis.
Their take on dolmas (stuffed grape leaves) — made with purple and white cabbage, beef tartare and buckwheat, drizzled with dill oil — is unmissable.
I FANCY A DRINK: Athenians love to bar hop. Begin at Brettos in Plaka, famous for a distillery that has made liqueurs and ouzo since 1909.
Continue by foot to Monastiraki and Psyrri, and to the terrace of Be Social for people-watching; Six D.o.g.s for live music and DJs; and A For Athens for local-themed cocktails (try the Circe’s Potion, made with Metaxa brandy).
WHERE SHOULD I STAY?: From The Modernist in Kolonaki (Athens’ swishest neighbourhood), it’s a 15-minute stroll into the centre.
The hotel has a minimalist decor and a roof-top bar.
Some rooms come with balcony hot tubs, others with vinyl record players.
The buffet breakfast is international, with eggs cooked to order.
Or go Greek for the day with yoghurt topped with nuts and honey, followed by cheese pie.
