WE veered along the craggy mountain edge, passing lush forests, waterfalls and row upon row of grape vines drinking up the golden sun.
We were exploring the lush Troodos Mountains in the west of Cyprus, while our guide Rian dished out insight on the region, like how Paphos is actually pronounced “Bafos”.
Our tour was one of many family-friendly excursions offered by the TUI resort we were staying in.
After a morning rolling through the hills in a sturdy 4x4, we stopped at a village for a traditional lunch big enough for 20 but all for my family of four — and including one litre of red wine and another of white for Mum and Dad.
We scoffed delicious ravioles (potato-and-cheese ravioli), moreish kritharaki (tomatoey orzo pasta), unctuous manitaria krasata (mushrooms in wine) and mountains of grilled lamb and chicken.
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The delicious local food is certainly one big reason to visit Cyprus — but not the only one.
This proud nation has breathtaking scenery, abundant wildlife, cute hilltop towns and the nicest people you could wish to meet.
Paphos, in the south-west of the island where we were staying, is just a four-hour flight from the UK.
And our hotel, TUI’s four-star Holiday Village Aliathon, was just a 15-minute coach ride from the airport — perfect if travelling with kids, as we were.
The resort boasts the “biggest pool in Cyprus”, which certainly comes in handy given the sizzling weather.
Paphos itself is a game of two halves.
There is the harbour and the behind it — home to all the usual tourist restaurants but also a Caffé Nero and a Pizza Express if you’re not feeling quite so adventurous.
Here you can drink a pint of local Keo lager for less than €2 while working out which day trips to book with the numerous operators based by the harbour.
If you fancy a spot of culture, visit the archaeological park to check out the ancient mosaics (€4.50, kids free).
The boat trip we booked through the hotel’s TUI reps was cancelled due to drizzle but by all accounts a cruise to the Blue Lagoon is a cracking way to spend a lazy afternoon.
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There are also lots of other things you can do from Paphos — take a bus to bustling Limassol, rent a quad bike, hire a car for as little as €30 a day, scuba dive or take a trip in a light aircraft.
Whatever your budget will allow is here.
When it comes to food, you’ll have your pick of traditional restaurants where you can tuck in to meze starters, the fabled trad-itional feast of grilled meats, and other bits and bobs like taramasalata and halloumi.
We went to traditional taverna Hondros one night for a taste of local cuisine, and I’d heartily recommend it.
The nightlife is here too, from the ubiquitous British-style “pub”, and clubs, to trendy bars like the chilled-out Alea, facing on to the sea.
For the real Paphos, take a ten-minute bus ride up the hill to the Old Town where the locals hang out.
There you can find even better restaurants, where the prices are cheaper and the food is tastier.
Laziness is welcome
I had a kebab from Souvlaki Livadias for less than €5 and it was one of the best things I ate all week.
The market here is aimed at tourists and is great for stocking up on fake designer accessories and knock-off football tops.
I drew the line at the traditional Cypriot pottery bowl “handmade in Croatia”.
Or you could, of course, just do nothing. Laziness is also welcome in Cyprus — and no more so than at our hotel, the Aliathon.
Our deal was all-inclusive so trying to drag the kids away from the snack bar’s fresh pizza and unlimited fizzy pop was not at all easy.
There are loads of places to laze around, so you can take in the sun during the entire daily arc across the sky.
Our deal even gave us access to the new pool with swim-up bar, which was quieter than the hectic main pool. (This hotel is strictly for families. No kids? Don’t go!).
Our two children, age nine and 11, loved the splash pool with slides and waterfalls.
There’s also a kids’ club, with a packed schedule of events from chocolate parties to football and archery.
A small Go Ape-style assault course is fun for children and adults alike.
Everything was spotlessly clean and the buffets were bountiful, with new options each day to keep you interested.
The site doesn’t back on to the sea but is only a short walk away — enjoyable for the beautiful coastline.
As summer kicks in, there are plenty of bars at which to enjoy a bevy and just take it all in.
We made do with a bottle of prosecco and glasses from the hotel bar.
Surely the best way to spend an evening — and being all-inclusive, it cost nothing.
