28 June 2023 , 20:21
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Bird’s Eye peas, Heinz tomato ketchup and Branston pickle: all much-loved staples scoffed here on a daily basis.
But what happens when someone turns them into ice cream?
At The Village in London’s swanky Belgravia district, it’s time to find out just that.
Anya Hindmarch, the fashion designer behind the 2007 I’m Not A Plastic Bag tote phenomenon, has opened her Ice Cream Project to bring beloved British brands to the people… in the form of frozen fantasy.
Among the 14 flavours on offer are Ambrosia rice pudding, Blue Dragon original sweet chilli, a rich chocolate Maldon Salt sorbet and KP Salted Peanuts.
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The pea-flavoured dessert did not go down well (Phil Harris)And it gets weirder. How about cheddar cheese ice cream packed with chunks of Branston pickle? Or Heinz Ketchup, anyone?
All the ice cream flavours have been handmade in small batches in Devon.
And you can try them by the £3.50 scoop or select your favourites to take home in 500ml tubs for £15.
Entering the pop-up parlour is like walking into a sweet shop for adults.
Emmeline was no fan of the tomato soup flavour (Phil Harris)It’s a room packed with floor-to-ceiling freezers, which are all stocked with brightly coloured tubs. Warburtons Crumpets rub shoulders with Kikkoman Soy Sauce, and McVitie’s Digestives jostle for position with Tiptree Lemon Curd. It’s just as much a treat for the eyes as it is for my sweet tooth.
Behind the counter, Timothy the ice cream scooper is ready to dole out the goods. “Try the petits pois flavour – it’s really refreshing for summer,” he promises.
It’s like pouring a bag of frozen peas into your mouth. There is a little sweetness but it’s tempered by the overwhelming taste of vegetables. Sorry Timothy, but it’s not for me.
Anya Hindmarch (Getty Images)But what about those of us whose tastebuds are apparently still stuck at the age of five?
A scoop of Branston flavour is dangled tantalisingly in my face.
Cheddar ice cream doesn’t particularly sound like my cup of tea, but surprisingly it really works.
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A cockapoo that has wandered in off the street with his owner sighs mournfully at the forbidden fruit in my hands, dreaming of the day he’ll be allowed to taste cheese ice cream.
Emmeline was impressed with the peanut-flavoured ice cream (Phil Harris)My winners are Ribena, which tastes just like running home on a hot day when you were little for a glass of thirst-slaking squash.
The melt-in-your-mouth Maldon Salt also scores highly. I go back for thirds (and fourths) before floating out of the shop in a total sugar high.
* The Ice Cream Project opens today until August 27 at The Village London.
Emmeline's verdict:
Ambrosia Rice Pudding: Comforting.
Birds Eye Petits Pois: Vile.
Blue Dragon Original Sweet Chilli: Spicy!
Branston: Delicious.
Heinz Tomato Ketchup: Nope.
Kellogg’s Coco Pops: Classic chocolatey goodness.
Kellogg’s Rice Krispies: A little too vanilla.
Kikkoman Soy Sauce: Surprisingly tasty.
KP Original Salted Peanuts: Perfect combo of salt and sweet.
Maldon Salt: Could live off this.
McVitie’s Digestives: Buttery gorgeousness.
Tiptree Lemon Curd: Summer in a bowl.
Ribena: Juicy and moreish.
Warburtons Crumpets: Toasty.