AS you climb the south slope of the Acropolis, on the obligatory visit to the Parthenon, you pass through the 2,500-year-old remains of a sanctuary dedicated to the god Dionysus.
Ancient Greeks believed Dionysus, among many other things, taught them how to make wine.
My kind of god.
And they would pay tribute to him in suitable fashion — by drinking, dancing and feasting.
That’s my kind of homage - and one that modern-day Athenians, with their famously generous hospitality, are keen to help you partake in.
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Whether you’re looking for traditional street food or a Michelin-starred experience, this beautiful city is well-equipped to keep you fuelled up during your mission of historical discovery.
The queue of locals outside Kostas souvlaki joint in Agias Irinis Square is a good place to start.
For €3, you can sit in the dappled sunshine of the square enjoying a freshly-made “kebab” with its signature spicy sauce.
Cheap as chips this wrap may be, but the commitment to quality goes right down to local legend Kostas slicing the tomato straight into the pita bread to avoid losing any of its juice.
Round the corner at Ergon House, enjoy farm-to-table, locally-sourced dishes in a bright, buzzing space behind a deli market that is also a one-stop shop for treats to take back home.
If you prefer your dinner with some traditional Greek plate-smashing and live music, Stou Thoma in Piraeus will not leave you disappointed.
Locals pack the place to party late into the night — expect dancing on your table.
To enjoy dinner (or breakfast, or drinks) with a classical Athenian view, however, it’s hard to beat the rooftop bar and restaurant at the Electra Metropolis Hotel.
With indoor and outdoor seating, the views across the city to the nearby Parthenon are breathtaking, day or night.
Guests at the stunning five-star hotel have priority to enjoy the vista, and the rooftop pool.
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Turquoise waters
But the space is open to non-residents, too, and a booking for early evening, when the sun sets on the horizon beyond the Acropolis and the light gradually changes, is an experience to be treasured.
First-time visitors to the Greek capital will, of course, need to visit the Parthenon rather than just gaze at it — and it is just a 15-minute walk from the Electra.
On the way, a stroll through the vibrant cafe-filled streets of Plaka and the narrow alleyways below the great rock in Anafiotika for atmospheric additions to your camera roll.
A visit to the Acropolis museum is well worthwhile, too — with the top floor of the building housing a glass-walled chamber that replicates the dimensions and orientation of the Parthenon itself.
It’s better to enter the Acropolis site itself by the south slope rather than north as a) it’s more interesting and b) less crowded.
On that note, if you can’t get to the Acropolis soon after it opens at 8am, you may find it better to visit later in the afternoon as parties from cruise ships docking in the city flood the attraction in the middle of the day.
If you’re keen to learn about the stories behind the Acropolis — or indeed any of the historical sites scattered liberally across the city — a tour by the friendly guides at Alternative Athens will have you hungry for more.
But there is more to Athens than food and history.
It’s easy to forget that the city sits on the coast and has 18 blue flag beaches in easy striking distance either by taxi or a €1.50 tram ride.
The nearest island, Aegina, can be reached in just 30 minutes from the port, making it easy to venture off the mainland for a day trip.
Visitors outside of the summer months (average temperatures hit 32C in the summer, but October stays as high as 23C) who still fancy a swim should take the short trip to Vouliagmeni, a freshwater lake 40 minutes’ drive from the city.
Its turquoise waters remain at 22C all year round, and it’s home to a species of fish which give free foot pedicures if that’s your thing.
There’s a rich tradition of street art, with huge paintings covering the walls of buildings up in Keramikos.
If you still have the energy for more after all that, Athens has a vibrant nightlife scene.
The bars of the old textile district surrounding Agia Irini Square will start you off nicely.
Tailor Made is a favourite among locals with vintage sewing patterns adorning the walls and reasonably priced cocktails.
Then, a short walk away, the late-night bars of Kolokotroni Street will help you to pay tribute to Dionysus well into the early hours.
As any Greek will tell you, it’s what he would have wanted.
