JUST when you think your skincare routine is perfect, a wrinkle or spot brings you back to square one.
Because a product once worked for you, it doesn’t mean it always will.
Dr Glyn Estebanez, who runs Prima Aesthetics in Chester, says: “Lots of women will stick to the same regime for many years.
“But as we get older our skin changes and you could benefit by mixing up your routine.
“What you put on your face in your 20s isn’t necessarily going to help as you hit the menopause, when your skin will start to lose collagen, dry out and become more sensitive.”
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Dr Estebanez and Dr Ginni Mansberg, GP and founder of Evidence Skincare, give us their top tips on looking after your skin through the decades.
TWENTIES
WRINKLES may be the last thing on your mind when you are in your twenties, but this is the time when you need to prepare for the future.
Dr Glyn says: “At this age, prevention is better than cure. Using an SPF is the best thing you can do to protect your skin from the sun’s damaging UV rays and it will reduce the likelihood of developing wrinkles, as well as skin cancer.
“Wear it every day, even when it’s cloudy. I’d recommend SPF 30 as a minimum.”
Dr Glyn is also a fan of Vitamin C, which helps keep skin firm.
He says: “Vitamin C is an antioxidant so it will protect the skin from sun-induced premature ageing as well as help to build collagen.”
Dr Ginni advises eating well, exercising and getting enough sleep.
She adds: “Don’t underestimate the value of a healthy lifestyle.”
TRY: Holland & Barrett Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid Serum (30ml), £12, hollandandbarrett.com and Garnier Ambre Solaire Anti-Age Super UV Face Protection SPF50 £6, lookfantastic.com.
THIRTIES
WHEN it comes to telltale signs of ageing, Dr Ginni says the skin around our eyes is often the first to lose its firmness.
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She explains: “It has fewer oil glands and less collagen in comparison to the rest of your skin.
“That makes it prone to fine lines, dehydration and dullness.
“We often miss this area when applying sunscreen so take care to do so as it can be prone to UV damage.”
According to Dr Ginni, caffeine is hugely beneficial for the skin, but she’s not talking about the contents of your morning latte.
She says: “Try an eye cream with caffeine in it. Caffeine helps constrict blood vessels, meaning less fluid leaking into the under-eye area.
“It also stimulates blood circulation around the eye, making the skin look fresh and rejuvenated.”
As our collagen levels start to decline in our 30s, Dr Ginni also emphasises the importance of boosting collagen production as much as possible.
She says: “Vitamin A (retinal) is great for managing acne flare-ups but it also helps build collagen.”
There’s also evidence that Vitamin B3, or niacinamide, can reduce wrinkles and reduce hyperpigmentation.
Dr Ginni says: “It helps prevent moisture loss from the skin’s surface, and therefore prevents dehydration.
“Using it before the signs of ageing appear may help delay the inevitable.”
TRY: The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane, £7.90, boots.com and Vitamin C Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid, Brightening And Anti Dark Spot Serum, £8, lookfantastic.com.
FORTIES
DR GLYN explains that in the years when women see their oestrogen levels drop, exfoliation is key to stop skin from drying out.
He says: “At this age, we often start to see some skin thinning, sun spots, redness and other damage caused in earlier years.
“Oestrogen levels start to drop and collagen declines.
“One of the most important things you can do at this age is to exfoliate.
“This will boost hydration and encourage the growth of new skin cells.
“You should continue to use retinol-containing preparations and introduce more heavily moisturising serums.”
If you’re keen to try something more than a serum, Dr Glyn advises: “You could also try something called Profhilo, which is an injectable gel containing hyaluronic acid which boosts and hydrates the skin to help improve and restore firmness.”
Micro-needling is also an option. Dr Ginni says: “This causes tiny injuries and stimulates the skin to produce skin cells, collagen and elastic.”
TRY: Liz Earle Gentle Face Exfoliator, £14.40, from lookfantastic.com and ESK Ageless Microneedle Patches £26, eskcare.com.
FIFTIES
THE menopause may be synonymous with hot flushes and brain fog, but did you know it can also cause your skin to be more sensitive?
Dr Ginni says: “At this age, most women will be going through or have just hit menopause and you’ll need to look out for sensitivity.
“One Dutch study found that 32 per cent of peri and postmenopausal women said they had sensitive skin.
“They experienced bumps, pimples, itching, drying, redness. Typical triggers included shaving, the weather and toiletries.
“Rosacea also often makes an appearance, causing flushing, redness, dilated blood vessels and burning and stinging.”
Dr Ginni suggests cutting back on Vitamin C until your skin settles and opting instead for gentle Vitamin A products such as retinal, which can ease redness.
She adds: “Avoid anything that dries out the skin, including soaps and toners. Plus anything that is pro-inflammatory to your skin such as micro beads or rough exfoliaters.”
TRY: Olay Regenerist Retinol24 Night Face Moisturiser, £19, boots.com, and L’Oreal Paris Triple Active Moisturiser for Sensitive Skin, £4.33, boots.com.
SIXTIES
A LOSS of skin elasticity is an inevitable part of the ageing process – and according to Dr Ginni, it can lead to some women having “massive pores” in later life.
She says: “This is caused by decreased elasticity and these larger-looking pores can eventually connect to form long cavities that look like wrinkles.”
But Dr Ginni assures us there are ways to combat this condition, such as using alpha hydroxy acids on your skin.
She says: “One Korean study found that using four per cent glycolic and lactic acid reduced the number and size of pores significantly after just one week and sebum levels decreased after four weeks, dramatically improving the skin’s appearance.”
Your skin may also dry out at this age, which Dr Ginni explains is caused by “a damaged skin barrier and resulting water loss from the skin.”
She adds: “Using hyaluronic acid will help. It is key for wound-healing and improving the skin’s elasticity.”
And don’t think that being older is an excuse to stop wearing sunscreen, as older skin is still prone to UV damage.
Dr Ginni says: “Peri and postmenopausal skin may be sensitive, and UV rays can cause inflammation making the whole situation worse.
“Go for a super-gentle zinc-based sunscreen with broad spectrum protection against UVA and B.”
TRY: The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, £11.50, lookfantastic.com, and Holland and Barrett Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50, £9.99, hollandandbarrett.com.
